Souls Day:
Halloween is not really a thing in Paraguay. The candy
companies are trying to make it happen by sending down themed candy and
promoting trick or treating but let me tell you right now nestle… it’s a lost
cause. Paraguayans (keep in mind I am speaking for the people in my community)
do call October 31 witches day. What this means is that throughout the day they
playfully insult one another by saying congratulations and happy witch day. I
did my best to explain the candy and trick or treating but it never really made
sense to them.
One thing I did notice from Paraguay (although I am writing
this from the comfort of my bedroom in my parent’s home in Powder Springs, more
on that in later blogs), is that people in America seem to be into the “Día de Muertos”
or day of the dead. Although this day
falls on Halloween it is more about honoring the dead than begging strangers
for candy and seeing if you can still pull off the slutty cop look.
Paraguay’s version of day of the dead falls on November
2. The name my host mom gave me is “The
day of souls” but I have heard there are other common names. This year it happened to fall on a Saturday
and I was invited to join the family at the cemetery. The man who would have been my host father,
Na Julia’s husband for 50 plus years, died 1 year before I arrived in the
community and the family was heading to the cemetery to pay their respects.
Na Julia, Lourdes, Solidad (my host cousin, she’s 21), and I
all piled into a taxi and drove the 6 miles to the cemetery. Once we got there we walked past all of the
grave sites to the final resting place of Na Julia’s husband. We spent the next half hour cleaning the
grave and rearranging flowers. A candle
was lit and we said a prayer. Next we
moved to the grave of Na Julia’s son, he died 11 years ago. He was around 40 when he passed away from
what I believe was a brain aneurism. I
am not positive because my host mother just told me he dropped dead in front of
the house one day and no one knows why. It
is not uncommon for people to be unsure about a person’s cause of death,
especially if it happened years ago. Tests and autopsies are expensive and
often a spiritual or cultural justification is given. Once we finished cleaning his grave and
changing the flowers we just hung out.
We stayed at the graves for around 3 hours, and really the
idea was just to spend time with them. To me it seemed like a really nice
tradition. There were a lot of Paraguayans all visiting loved ones and some
brought soda and snacks. They spent the
day greeting each other and spending time at the graves of loved ones that they
had lost.
After we spent time with the graves of the immediate family
members we went to find Na Julia’s father’s grave. He died around 50 years of tuberculosis. His grave was interesting because his brother
had been buried on top of him around 10 years after he was buried. We visited with other family members that
happened to be at the cemetery, and then we returned to the original graves to
say goodbye one last time.
In my opinion this is a much better holiday than
Halloween. Paraguayans spend the day
remembering loved ones. Oddly, it is not
a day full of tears. It is a day where
you sit around the graves of loved ones and have conversations as you normally
would. It is as if you are filling them
in on what they have missed in the past year and to me that is far more special
than dressing like a half-naked Miley Cyrus on a wrecking ball.
Lourdes cleaning her father's grave. |
Cemetery |
Na Julia visiting her husband |
Na Julia's father and Uncle |